Almost all Generation X, Millennial, and even Generation Z Asian Americans can vividly recount the first time they experienced racial alienation – for many, it took place in their childhood cafeteria. They remember the sore subject of homemade lunch, as they opened their bags to the traditional foods of their culture, only to be mocked by their classmates.
This universal experience has been told hundreds of times across memoirs, films, and novels: the moment when a food called “home” becomes “disgusting” in the American public, and the child’s heartbreak makes assimilation their only choice.
But today, this sociocultural scene is much different. Korean culture, in particular, is enrapturing the public with everything from Korean popular music (K-pop) to Korean corn dogs. With the help of social media, and the magnetic influence of Tik Tok, the popularization of Korean culture has skyrocketed – yet, it still begs the question of whether this is true progress or plain whitewashing.
Recently, Trader Joe’s (an American chain of grocery stores) has taken the world by storm with its version of Korean Kimbap, only that they’ve reduced the meals of many childhoods into pre-packaged freezer food. At the click of a single, 15-second video that called Trader Joe’s kimbap “amazing,” the viral item had been sold out across the nation, quickly turning a cultural dish into a mere American fad.
Traditionally, kimbap is a hand-rolled, room-temperature roll of rice and seaweed wrapped around various ingredients, from pickled vegetables to beef. To Korean Americans, it represents not only humble childhood nostalgia but also a long history of adversity in the United States.
This mass-produced, easy Trader Joe’s version of the dish has raised substantive controversy. What’s more, the ease at which it rose to popularity–especially because through a non-Korean voice– leads people to wonder: does the Americanization of outside cultures control its acceptance in the States?
Cultural appropriation vs. appreciation?
Many question the social power of companies like Trader Joe’s. The grocery store is known for its niche items, each unique to the “Trader Joe’s” brand. Additionally, the company makes a notable effort to include a variety of cultures in its products.
But the fine line between appreciation and appropriation has been a long-held debate. Some of its products, now altered, even used to advertise “Trader Jose” and “Trader Ming” to characterize different cultural foods.
Definitely, there’s a lot of craze over chicken tikka masala, and it’s kinda annoying because that seems to be the only Indian food anyone who isn’t Indian knows about
— Hills sophomore Krisha Chavada
But the real dilemma comes from the company’s public influence. While it is only natural that personal environments (and the companies people regularly surround themselves with) shape their decisions, when is it called cultural ignorance? At what point does purchasing whitewashed foods become ethnocentrism?
In a survey sent to Hills students, sophomore Krisha Chavada responded to experiencing cultural appropriation, especially with her Indian cuisine. She said, “Definitely, there’s a lot of craze over chicken tikka masala, and it’s kinda annoying because that seems to be the only Indian food anyone who isn’t Indian knows about.” She explained that Americanized versions of her cuisine overlook other aspects, instead focusing on “the craze over ‘chai tea’ and ‘naan bread,’” where “everyone just stereotypes Indian food to be one thing when there’s a big variety of different foods and cultures within India.”
With this comes the trend, especially in today’s age, of false “cultural appreciation.” Many “socially aware” individuals, specifically celebrities and influencers, claim to adore the various components of other cultures, including South Korean culture. Yet this appreciation often only extends to Americanized versions of said components, such as Whole Foods “kimchi” and local Korean “corn dogs,” both of which are rarely authentic.
Other instances of Americanized fads
However, this phenomenon is not unique to Korean kimbap. The United States is famous for its Americanization of other cultures, as well as the nationwide sensation that follows.
For example, to appeal to American taste buds, Americanized Chinese food emphasizes frying and sweet and sour flavors. But Americanized Chinese cuisine is appallingly inaccurate. Orange chicken, lo mein, and fortune cookies were not invented in China and are not authentic Chinese cuisine. Likewise, calling a mango and beef mix “Jamaican stew” and a non-Tunisian rice recipe “Tunisian” is just as much disingenuous.
In our modern world, filled with fast-paced social media and an affinity for “influencing,” people often provide the perfect social context for these Americanized foods to thrive. Buzzwords like “viral” and “trending” are the norm, enabling Americans to feed into these standards with ease.
The other perspective
On the other end of the spectrum is an optimistic viewpoint, which sees this popularization – albeit inauthentic – as progress nonetheless. To some members of the Korean and Korean American community, the public’s fascination with Trader Joe’s Kimbap is the gateway to cultural immersion.
I don’t see anything truly wrong with it, because food is meant to be enjoyed and shared. Whether people enjoy it in the right way is not up to us, so the fact that people are even enjoying it is a step forward
— Anonymous Hills student
An anonymous Hills student said, “I guess it’s both appreciation and appropriation. It’s appropriation because it is probably not sold in the way that the [Korean] culture would like to represent it, but considering how low the bar is for Americans, I would take it as appreciation.”
“I don’t see anything truly wrong with it, because food is meant to be enjoyed and shared. Whether people enjoy it in the right way is not up to us, so the fact that people are even enjoying it is a step forward,” said another anonymous student.
Many individuals from this perspective accept the reality that the Americanization of cultures is inevitable, and at times necessary, for an outside culture to be accepted. Though a slightly grim idea, as is with any country, instant appreciation for a non-native culture is difficult and oftentimes impossible.
In truth, it is necessary to come to terms with the limitations of cultural exchange. If delving into the wonders of Korean cuisine and its history means beginning with “Trader Joe’s Korean Kimbap,” then such are the steps to take.
Sources:
https://www.foodrepublic.com/1364072/trader-joes-frozen-kimbap-viral-tiktok/
https://www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/trader-joes-kimbap-tiktok-rcna103403
https://www.foodnetwork.com/fn-dish/recipes/what-is-korean-american-food
https://www.eater.com/22239499/lunchbox-moment-pop-culture-tropes
